visibilityHow to tell pipe rust from tank rust
- Run the COLD tap into a clear glass for a few minutes. If it starts rusty and runs clear, it was likely sediment or the first still water in the pipe; if it stays rusty, corrosion is ongoing.
- Now compare hot and cold. If only the HOT is discoloured (or smells of sulphur), the water heater's tank or anode is the likely source. If both hot and cold are rusty, suspect the supply pipes.
- Check the first-draw pattern over a couple of mornings. Rust that's worst in the first draw and clears with running points at localized pipe corrosion; a plumber can confirm and locate it.
handymanHow to fix it
Drain and flush the water heater to clear rust and sediment, and inspect the sacrificial anode — a heavily corroded anode is a cheap swap and often cures a hot-side rust or sulphur smell. Corroded supply pipes, by contrast, are a licensed plumber's repair, not a flush.
- Switch the heater to "vacation"/pilot (gas) or OFF at the breaker (electric), and shut the cold-water inlet valve. Let the tank cool for an hour or two so you're not draining scalding water.
- Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom, run it to a floor drain or outside, open a hot tap upstairs to break the vacuum, then open the drain valve and flush until the water runs clear.
- To inspect the anode, close the drain, and with the tank still off, unscrew the anode rod from the top (a 1-1/16" socket and breaker bar). If it's heavily eaten down to the wire, fit a new one — switch to an aluminum-zinc anode if you're fighting a sulphur smell.
- Close everything up, reopen the inlet, let the tank refill fully (a hot tap will sputter then run steady), then restore power/gas and confirm normal hot water.
Flushing the tank, running taps, and replacing the sacrificial anode are owner-permitted maintenance. Replacing corroded supply piping is a licensed plumber's job in most provinces (permit and/or licence); confirm the local rule before treating pipe replacement as DIY.