visibilityHow to check
- Pick a cold day and get into the attic through the hatch. Step only on the ceiling joists or laid boards — never on the drywall between them, which won't hold your weight.
- Look at the insulation depth. If you can see the tops of the joists, or the insulation is thin, matted, or unevenly spread, there is not enough of it to keep house heat out of the attic.
- Measure the depth in a few spots with the tape. Compare it against your provincial energy code's recommended attic level (a roofer or your building department can confirm the number for your area) — well below it points here.
- While you're up there, note frost on the underside of the roof deck or warm spots: both confirm heat and moisture are reaching the roof and driving the melting.
handymanHow to fix it
Air-seal the obvious ceiling gaps, then top up the attic insulation to your provincial energy-code level — keeping it clear of soffit vents and any heat sources — so the roof deck stays cold and stops melting snow.
- Before adding insulation, seal the warm-air leaks: caulk or foam around plumbing stacks, wiring holes, and the attic hatch, and use rated covers for older recessed lights. Insulation slows heat but doesn't stop air movement.
- Fit rafter baffles at every eave so new insulation can't choke the soffit vents — the attic still needs to breathe cold air.
- Add batts or blown insulation evenly to reach your provincial energy-code depth, keeping it back from chimneys, flues, and any heat-producing fixture per their clearance labels.
- Leave the attic hatch insulated and weatherstripped. Over the next thaw, check that the roof snow now melts evenly rather than dripping at the eaves.