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A faucet won't stop dripping

A steady drip is annoying (and adds up on the water bill), but it's one of the friendliest repairs in the house — usually a worn rubber part you can swap in an afternoon. Before you take anything apart, close the shutoff valves under the sink.

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In Canada, on a two-handle faucet the worn washer is the first thing to rule out. Close the shutoff valves under the sink, open the handle to drain the line, then remove the handle and stem and look at the small rubber washer on the end — cracked, flattened, or hardened means you've likely found the drip. The washer costs a few cents.

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visibilityHow to check

  1. Close both shutoff valves under the sink (turn clockwise until snug), then open the faucet fully to drain the line and confirm the water is off.
  2. Pop off the decorative handle cap, remove the handle screw, and lift the handle. Unscrew the packing nut and back the stem out by hand.
  3. Look at the rubber washer on the end of the stem. Cracked, flattened, hardened, or grooved means it can no longer seal — that's your drip. While you're in there, run a fingertip on the brass seat below; if it feels rough or pitted, the seat is worn too.
buildscrewdriverbuildadjustable-wrench schedule15 min

handymanHow to fix it

With the water shut off and the line drained, remove the stem, swap the worn washer for a matching one (match diameter and flat-vs-bevel), replace the small brass screw if it's corroded, reassemble, and open the shutoffs slowly to test.

  1. Close the under-sink shutoffs and open the faucet to drain and confirm no pressure. Plug the drain so nothing small falls in.
  2. Remove the handle and packing nut and back out the stem. Take the worn washer to the store, or match it from an assortment: same diameter, and flat vs bevelled to match.
  3. Fit the new washer and secure it with the brass screw (replace the screw if it's corroded). Do not overtighten — the washer only needs to seat, not to crush.
  4. Reassemble the stem, packing nut, and handle. Open the shutoffs slowly, then run the faucet and watch for a lingering drip over a few minutes. Still dripping after a fresh washer usually means the valve seat.
schedule30 min savings$2–12
Faucet washer assortment (with brass screws)Match the washer diameter and flat vs bevelled profile to the old one

handymanHow to fix it

With the water shut off, remove the handle and retaining clip, pull the old cartridge straight out (a puller helps if it's stuck), drop in a replacement matched to the faucet brand and model, reclip, and open the shutoffs slowly to test.

  1. Close the under-sink shutoffs and open the faucet to relieve pressure. Note the faucet brand and, if you can find it, the model — cartridges are brand-specific.
  2. Remove the handle, then the retaining nut or clip that holds the cartridge. Note the cartridge's orientation (many have a keyed tab) before removing it.
  3. Pull the cartridge straight up and out. If it's seized, a brand-matched cartridge puller avoids damaging the faucet body.
  4. Insert the new cartridge in the same orientation, refit the clip and handle, open the shutoffs slowly, and test hot and cold for drips and correct handle direction.
schedule35 min savings$15–60
Replacement faucet cartridgeMatch the faucet brand and model — cartridges are not interchangeable between makers
warning A pitted seat can be made worseRegrinding or replacing a valve seat is doable with the right seat tool, but a heavy hand can score the brass further or crack an old faucet body, turning a drip into a bigger repair. If the seat is badly pitted or the faucet is old and brittle, a licensed plumber can reseat or replace it quickly — often cheaper than the water damage from a faucet that lets go.
warning Pressure work is a plumber's jobAdding or adjusting a pressure-reducing valve on the home's main is not a faucet repair — it means cutting into the main supply and setting it correctly so the whole house is protected. Confirm high pressure yourself with an inexpensive gauge, but have a licensed plumber install or adjust the regulator.
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Nous ne classons pas seulement selon la probabilité. Nous classons comme le ferait un bon artisan honnête : éliminer d’abord les causes gratuites, sûres et courantes. C’est pourquoi les vérifications peu coûteuses passent avant les réparations chères — et pourquoi tout ce qui est dangereux reçoit un arrêt net plutôt qu’un encouragement. Cet ordre existe pour vous faire économiser, pas pour vous vendre quelque chose.